Whiteburn's Wanderings

One man's wanderings backpacking around Scotland plus the odd digression

Petzl MYO – RIP

Needless to say that I’m an inveterate fixer so when the Petzl MYO RXP ‘failed’ on my last trip (light flickered incessantly & then switched itself off, repeatedly) a ‘fix’ was on the cards.
It seemed more than likely that the issue was a broken lead either at the headlamp or battery compartment entry. I failed at the first hurdle though as I could find a Torx T6 screwdriver (to dissemble the head piece) amongst the plethora of tools in the shed so I had to order up a set.
Step 1: the headset easily came apart once the 4 T6 screws were removed.
73 (Large)
The circuit board, heat sink & LED then pops out.
78 (Large)
Ended up cutting about 3cm off the cable & re-terminating it into the headset. Getting the wires soldered onto the circuit board was a bit of a fiddly task, 3 hands needed.
Result still had the same problem……..try the other end!
Step 2: the battery compartment proved to be easier to pull apart.
80 (Large)
Two plastic terminal cover pieces simply snap out to give access to the soldered cable ends, there is a fuse adjacent to the +ve (red) terminal, again I cut & terminated the cable.
Result still had the same problem……..replace to cable!
Step 3: cable replaced.
81 (Large)
Result still had the same problem, must be a circuit board fault….……..give up & look for another light!  It does reinforce my opinion that all solo winter walkers should carry a backup light (I carry the Petzl e+lite always), flat batteries aren’t the only failure mechanism.
The MYO has really been a firm favourite for winter climbing, hiking & backpacking. The variable light output suits the variety of needs: high power for route spotting; medium power & long life for general night walking (can’t remember how many times I’ve spent 2 – 3hrs coming off the hill in a Scottish winter); low power for use around camp. I was quite tempting to buy another but freely parting with cash isn’t one of my virtues.
During the shoulder seasons I’ve been quite happily using the Zebralight H52W for backpacking.
H52W (Large)
It has 6 light level outputs varying from 0.34Lm to 280Lm & uses a single AA cell; normally a 2700mAhr Ni-mh rechargeable with a Lithium cell as backup. I’m very pleased with it being very robust & low weight (80g). I did ponder whether I’d be happy with extending its use throughout the winter but I wasn’t happy with a battery life on ‘normal’ walking output, 50Lm, of 8hrs. This being said with only a single AA cell it’s very easy to change out even in pitch dark.
After a lot of searching, looking over reviews I eventually plumbed for ordering the Zebralight H600W more expensive than the Petzl MYO but I reckon it suits my needs & since it doesn’t have a cable there’s one point of failure eliminated. It’s a very similar light to the H52W but it uses a single 3.7V 18650 Li-ion cell & boasts up to 1020 Lm output (2hrs) but more important to me at 65Lm lasts 30hrs & at 30Lm 60hrs, it does weigh 40g more than the H52W but even with carrying a spare cell the weight is less than the Petzl MYO (150g). For charging the 18650 Li-ion cells I’ve opted for the Miller MC-02 smart charger (32g), quite cheap but comes well recommended & with a spare cell will double as an emergency charger for the iPhone (I do like double duty items).

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4 comments on “Petzl MYO – RIP

  1. Kirsten
    January 22, 2016

    Thanks for your wisdom on this one, Paul. If you can’t fix the MYO it must be bad! I’ll have a look at Zebralights too.

    • Paul Atkinson
      January 22, 2016

      It was probably 15yrs old & had a lot of use so I can’t really complain.

  2. John J
    January 29, 2016

    Worth checking:
    1) Switch: it looks like a push switch that cycles through modes, on/off etc. These are cheap, cheerful and they fail – ‘cos they’re mechanical.
    2) The component stuck on the back of the metal plate is probably a thermistor – a temperature sensor to detect the LED overheating. Try taking it out of circuit / shorting it out (depends whether it’s positive or negative coefficient)
    3) Dry joint on the PCB: try running your soldering iron over all the soldered joints.
    4) The LED itself may have failed, not sure if that’s a 1W or a 3w, but they’re probably available from Rapid Electronics for norralot of dosh (check online)

    • Paul Atkinson
      January 29, 2016

      Thanks for the idea’s John. Tried checking out the soldered joints I could get to & then gave up. I don’t really have the right ‘technology’ or brain to start dissembling components from the tiny circuit board.

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This entry was posted on January 22, 2016 by in Gear and tagged .
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