Whiteburn's Wanderings

One man's wanderings backpacking around Scotland plus the odd digression

MLD Duomid Step 2#

I decided upon adding an additional Lineloc at the door of the Duomid instead of the loop & karabiner as suggested by Robin @ Blogpackinglight.

Add LineLoc

I hand sewed it in as I thought my domestic sewing machine wouldn’t be man enough to stitch through the multiple layers of fabric & the zip; still I think it turned out quite tidy.

Add LineLoc Door

One of the reasons I decided against the ‘clipper’ was so that it was possible to tie-out both doors at the same time when additional ventilation was required but I didn’t want to roll back a door.

Add LineLoc Door open

The only little mod I made at this stage was to add a mitten hook by the doorway for clipping an LED Tea-light, a handy place for cooking light, the self adhesive Zpacks hooks made the job simple.

Door Hook

Next little job was to see the Bathtub bivi set up to see if the tie-outs & mitten hooks ‘worked’, it pulled up neatly from the 4 mitten hooks inside the Duomid, far easier to do than the Trailstar where I have to tie-off to the stakes.

Bath tub 2#

The head end also worked OK only requiring a bit of adjustment to the length of suspension cord.

Bath tub 4#

I use a cord running through the tarp’s mitten hook to a length of shock cord attached to the apex hook (same with the Trailstar), I find this is more convenient to use as well as providing a lot more potential movement without any danger of overstressing something.

Bath tub 5#

While the Duomid was pitched I thought I’d try out the Bearpaw Pyranet inner I have for the Trailstar, it fitted better than expected even with minimal offset of  the pole.

Nest 1#

Nest 2#

I may never use the combination but I now know that I could if I wanted.

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11 comments on “MLD Duomid Step 2#

  1. Robin
    October 27, 2014

    Neater stitching than my effort! Ron really should put a linelok on both door panels.

    • Paul Atkinson
      October 27, 2014

      I agree that Ron should give serious consideration to adding the lineloc, 2 – 3g’s adds a lot of flexibility, I wonder how many others have done the same?

  2. AlanR
    October 28, 2014

    I also added a pegging point at 1/4 and 3/4 along the rear lower edge. I sewed on a piece of grosgrain and used a loop of 2mm shock chord for the peg. It made such a difference. And i did your mod as well.

    • Paul Atkinson
      October 28, 2014

      I was holding fire on adding more linelocs until I’ve some operating experience.

  3. Mole
    October 29, 2014

    Good work. We arrange the door of our Oware Mid the same way for ventilation- only closing fully if raining or damp/cold/windy. It works well.

    I like your bivi, and the tie-out setup. I know you had a condensation issue with the sil foot panel, and changed it, but how have you found the head end?

    I made a double bathtub bivi this year, which worked well, and have materials for the solo, just need to finalise the design.

    • Paul Atkinson
      October 29, 2014

      No problems with condensation on the bivi head panel; I normally have my clothes stashed there (also in winter my boots) so this may help reduce the potential. The main reason I used the silnylon was that I like to sleep head to the door of the Trailstar so wanted 100% waterproof to guard against the wind changing direction in the night & snow/ rain blowing in.

  4. Mole
    October 29, 2014

    Cool, That makes sense. I might do something along similar lines, but with a slightly deeper bathtub. (used 6″ before). Mine will be for use in a TS as well as other shelters. I find the ground often dictates how I sleep in the TS . Also, at 6′ , to avoid brushing the wall, I often end up head or foot to the door if pitched low. So a solid head end seems a good move. Though I may just use pertex quantum like the rest of the top, as it has a pretty good DWR (and don’t have that much sil!). hmmm. Thanks

    • Paul Atkinson
      October 29, 2014

      I used a 4″ bathtub which in retrospect is probably a bit low when laying on an inflatable mat (Synmat 7UL), a 6″ bathtub would tend to stop the sleep bag flopping onto wet ground when getting in & out; there would be a weight increase but it’s probably only 15 – 20g.

  5. JohnBoy
    November 21, 2014

    A little sailing tip for your two lines on the door. It’s called ‘Dipping the eye’ and means you can unhook one door from the peg without unhooking both (which would be a problem if the door you want to unhook from the peg is the bottom of the two loops).

    To get around this, once the first door line is looped over the peg, take the line for the second door and pass it up through the eye of the first loop and back over the peg. If you do this, you can unhook any door without disturbing the other.

    Bit difficult to explain but do a google search for ‘dipping the eye mooring’ and you’ll find a couple of diagrams.

    • Paul Atkinson
      November 21, 2014

      Thanks for that Johnboy, I’ve done what you suggested before but didn’t know that it had a name, Wikipedia provides a nice little diagram.

      • JohnBoy
        November 21, 2014

        It’s about the only thing I remember from taking a Compitent Crew course years ago.

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This entry was posted on October 26, 2014 by in Gear and tagged .
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